The Russian River Valley
AVA is just about in the geographic center of
Sonoma County. The wine area was named for the Russian River, named for the first non-Native American explorers in the area who were – yes – Russian.
These early to mid nineteenth century settlers may have planted the first grape vines in the area, perhaps for wine, but the Russians lost their grip on the valley and other European settlers moved in, and by the 1870s, as the scrim of history unfolded, viticulture started in earnest. While some wineries that date to that early era are in operation today -- Korbel, for instance, opened for business in 1882 – most did not survive Prohibition. The modern era of winemaking started in the 1960s.
While the Russian River Valley is named for the river that cuts through it, another body of water plays a bigger role in its climate: the Pacific Ocean. The appellation is about 55 miles north of San Francisco, and, like that city, often gets socked in with fog. This evening fog cools the area, far more so than its immediate neighbors, thanks to the Russian River – the river channel serves as a fog conduit. That makes this cool climate grape country, especially suitable for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. And in terms of ambiance, the fog, together with he groves of impressive Redwood trees never allow you to forget exactly which
terroir you’re traveling through.
Here are a three iconic Russian River Valley wineries to add to your itinerary:

Korbel Champagne Cellars. Photo by Alison Stein WellnerKorbel Champagne Cellars is the oldest continuously operated champagne house on the continent, founded in 1882.
The Korbel family, which hailed from Bohemia, had its fingers in many different industries, agricultural and lumber related, which helped it to survive prohibition. A free winery tour is available, which includes a tasting, and is extensive – it lasts about fifty minutes. There are also garden tours, and a fine delicatessen serving salads and sandwiches that aim towards the gourmet, with good bread and the addition of fixings like cranberry chutney, tarragon mayonnaise, spring greens, making it an ideal stopping point for lunch.
If you don’t have time for a tour, at least stop by the small visitor’s center, an old train station erected in 1876 and decommissioned in 1935. The walls are lined with great vintage photographs.(13250 River Road, Guerneville.)

Garden at DeLoach. Photo by Alison Stein WellnerDeLoach is considered a pioneer vineyard in the Russian River Valley, tracing back to its start to 1973 when Cecil DeLoach, a San Francisco fireman, planted vines. Since 2003 it’s been owned by the Boisset family, who hail from Burgundy, France. They tore up and replanted several vineyards to adhere with eco-friendly biodynamic techniques.
All about biodynamic wine. The grounds are extensive and beautifully landscaped, easily incorporating compelling contemporary sculpture. (If you’re tempted to an impromptu picnic, the store also sells a variety of gourmet food products, including vineyard-labeled olives.) There are several different wine tasting options available, as well as a winery tour, including tasting, which costs $15. Note that the winery also has an extensive garden, reserve ahead for a special garden tour which incorporates wine tasting and garden-fresh nibbles. You can also call ahead to reserve a cheese plate. Details on tours and tastings
here . (1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa. 800-441-9298)

Photo by Alison Stein WellnerMerry Edwards was among the California’s first female winemakers, working at several other wineries before opening her own. This is a winery with a special emphasis on Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, and are mostly estate wines, with some grapes sourced from other growers. For wine tasting, appointments are encouraged, and are a good idea – you can drop by for a tasting, but you may have to wait. Also bring your love of cats, as the winery is home to several cute ones. Just be aware that this means that while service dogs are welcome, it’s not the best vineyard to bring a canine companion. (2959 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol. 888-388-9050).